Thread Substitutions

Since Loretta Spears created most of her designs at the end of the 20th Century, not all the threads she used in her charts are currently available.  Often I make a note about substitutions in each article but I thought I'd list conversion charts and common substitutions for the more unusual or discontinued threads she used here for her fans' convenience.  I've also created a tab for those who have to mail order supplies to help find shops that do international orders or that have good customer service for those in the USA.  You can see that information here—
https://lorettaspears.blogspot.com/p/those-who-dont-live-in-united-states.html

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Balger Braid (Kreinik)

Balger Braid is the old name for Kreinik's metallic braid.  All the threads are just called Kreinik now. If you find a mention of Balger Braid on a chart without any size mentioned, it's almost certainly size 8 as that was the first diameter of braided metallic Kreinik commonly sold along with blending filament and cord.  Kreinik has tips for figuring out what thread was meant in old instructions and a link to discontinued colors here—

A ver a Soie carries a line of metallics as does DMC.  You can use multiple strands of the thinner metallics like Accentuate or Bijoux as well to substitute.  The colors won't be an exact match but that makes your stitching unique, not just a copy of Loretta's original piece.

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Coton Floche A Brode (DMC)

Often called Floche for short, this is a mercerized Egyptian cotton thread that is made up of four twisted strands but is non-divisible.  It is often described as size 16 because it is similar in diameter to size 16 perle cotton.  You can substitute size 16 perle cotton for Floche, although Floche has a bit more sheen and less twist in my opinion.  You can also just use cotton floss instead.  DMC's Floche colors are the same as their cotton floss colors.

DMC has a nice article about Floche on their website.
https://www.dmc.com/us/p-free-patternsfloche.html#null

Mary Corbet has written a review of the thread.  Bottom line: She loves it!
https://www.needlenthread.com/2016/09/3-good-reasons-to-try-dmc-floche.html

If you like Floche but want something a bit different, Ruth Schmuff sells overdyed Floche she calls Color Dreams in some very pretty colors.  She uses them often in her light coverage backgrounds.
https://bedeckedandbeadazzled.com/threads/color-dreams/floche-color-dreams/

Ruth also sells the standard colors.
https://bedeckedandbeadazzled.com/threads/dmc/floche/

Colour Complements in Canada also sells overdyed Floche in their own colors.  Lorraine is easy to work with and ships often to the United States.
https://colourcomplements.com/product-category/hand-dyed-cotton-floche


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Cresta d'Oro (Rainbow Gallery)

This is a chainette thread, which means that it is a synthetic, metallic-like thread made in chain loops. Cut one loop and the chain will start to unravel.  

In the USA, we use a drop of something like Frey Check or clear fingernail polish on the cut end to stop the unraveling.  A larger needle helps, too.

Rainbow Gallery makes other chainettes:  24 Karats, Alabaster, Gold Rush, and Treasure Chest.  However, they are not identical to Cresta d'Oro.  There is no clear substitute for Cresta d'Oro, but you can use any metallic thread that will cover your ground canvas well to get a similar look.  


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Danish Flower Thread (Ginnie Thompson)

Danish flower thread is a 100% unmercerized cotton thread with a matte finish that resembles a fine crewel wool to my eyes.  It is a twisted thread that doesn't ply with a slight hairy look to it like wool.   It's available from Ginnie Thompson in the USA and you can order the original from Denmark.

You can read a bit about the history of this thread here.  If you scroll down further you'll find conversion charts for DMC and Ginnie Thompson Flower Thread.
http://www.flowerthread.com/conversion.html

You can order the original from Denmark here.
https://www.ingebretsens.com/needlework/needlework-threads/danish-flower-thread

You can also order it from The Crewel Gobelin in Australia.  The website has nice photos of the colors available and some information about how to pull from skeins without tangling.
http://www.thecrewelgobelin.com.au/c/267959/1/danish-flower-threads.html

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Lacquered Jewels (Madeira)

Lacquered Jewels is a very thin metallic from Madeira with a black core so the threads have a slightly striped appearance.  This thread is a bit rounder and heavier than Kreinik's blending filament and it is quite strong.  You can use multiple plies for a metallic stitch or add a single ply to a non-metallic thread for interesting effects.

Lacquered Jewels are sold in a skein but you can also find them on a spool under the name Bijoux.  The spools are much easier to handle.  The skeins tend to tangle as you try to pull a length out to cut it.
https://www.traditionalstitches.com/p_BIJOUXM.html

You can also find a similar thread called Glints which has a white core instead of a black one.  Glints is not available in smaller spools anymore.  Loretta didn't use Glints in her designs—they were introduced only recently--but they would make a lovely variation on Lacquered Jewels.
http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/Access_Bijoux.html#Bijoux

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Opalescent (Sarah Bennett Specialties)

This is another very thin metallic thread, much like Accentuate/Supertwist.  It comes in skeins and is somewhat difficult to handle.  The skeins knot easily if you are not very careful in pulling out a strand to use.  Kreinik's blending filament is a substitute although Kreinik's blending filament can be divided into the color film and base thread and Opalescent cannot be divided.  However, I would use Accentuate myself.

I cannot find an online source for this thread (it's probably from Madeira) but here are the available colors of Accentuate.
http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/Access_Accentuate.html#Accentuate

It's possible Opalescent is originally from Sulky in Japan as they have a thin metallic called Opalescent used in machine sewing.  This is available from fabric stores like Joann's Fabrics in the USA.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sulky-Opalescent-Metallic-Thread-250-yd-Creative-Sewing-145-8040-/362993097030


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Overdyed Floss (Needle Necessities)

When Loretta started designing, overdyed threads were not widely available.  I think Caron's Watercolours (which is a heavy, three ply twisted cotton) and Needle Necessities's six ply cotton flosses were the only overdyes available.  Loretta used Needle Necessities' flosses and matching perle cottons in nearly every design she created and even did a free design to promote the threads.  Sadly, when Needle Necessities' owner died, the company shut its doors, but the dyer for the company started a new business called ThreadworX.  Many of Elaine Warner's colors created at Needle Necessities are still available from ThreadworX.  Here is a conversion chart from Needle Necessities' colors to ThreadworX's colors.
http://www.threadworx.com/admin/uploads/charts/FlossandPearlsComparisonCharts.pdf

Of course you can use the conversion chart above and ThreadworX's website to figure out the colors Loretta used, then pick your own colors from other thread brands with similar colors—or create your own color scheme.  You can also find Needle Necessities threads via eBay although finding the exact ones you need to match what Loretta used could be problematic.
http://www.threadworx.com/product.php?catid=10&catName=Hand%20Overdyed%20Floss%20-%205%20yards&pg_num=1

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Soie d'Alger (Au Ver A Soie)

Soie d'Alger is a 7 ply high gloss silk floss from France.  Since most silk flosses are six or twelve ply, this doesn't have an exact equivalent in other brands.  But you can substitute any silk floss if you don't have Soie d'Alger available.  It's beautiful so if you can get some, you should try it.
http://www.silk-thread.com/our-silk-threads

You can see the colors here although some have been discontinued.
http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiedAlger.html

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Supertwist (Madeira)

Supertwist is a thin synthetic metallic machine embroidery thread, manufactured by Madeira. It is also packaged in small spools for embroiderers which is called Accentuate.
http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/Access_Misc.html

http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/Access_Accentuate.html#Accentuate

Kreinik's blending filament is a good substitute although Kreinik's blending filament can be divided into the color film and the base thread and Supertwist/Accentuate cannot be divided.  I find Accentuate/Supertwist easier to use than blending filament.


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